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Transfăgărășan
Mountain Road
Exploring this epic road is one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences, a constant storm of powerful emotions and overwhelming moments that carry travelers to the dizzying heights of the Carpathians, among wild ridges and along sublime valleys!
Rightly considered one of the most beautiful and exciting roads in the world, the Transfăgărășan passes through Romania’s highest mountains, exploring spectacular landscapes in an incredible succession of tight curves, steep sections, bridges and tunnels. Along it, we pass through enchanting valleys and forests, past sparkling lakes and tumultuous waterfalls, over peaks and often right above dizzying precipices. The road was built between 1970 and 1974 at the initiative of Nicolae Ceaușescu, being a strategic project that required a huge budget and many lives lost. It is the second highest road in Romania, reaching 2,042 meters near the tunnel that pierces the main ridge of the Făgărăș Mountains.
Although it officially overlaps with the national road 7C, which connects the city of Curtea de Argeș and the village of Cârțișoara in Sibiu County, the real adventure of the Transfăgărășanu begins once we enter the overwhelming kingdom of mountains. Its most spectacular part crosses the ridges of the Carpathians for a length of approximately 70 kilometers, uniting the historical regions of Wallachia and Transylvania. On its most dangerous section, of approximately 30 kilometers, the road is only open for about 4 months a year, during the summer. Prepared for a unique and exciting experience, we set off from the south and just a few kilometers after entering the forested peaks, we stop to discover an amazing relic of times gone by.
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On a cliff hanging above the road rises the ancient Poienari Fortress, a place full of historical significance, but also of legends related to Vlad the Impaler. Its mysterious atmosphere draws us to the heights and we hike up the almost 1,500 steps to the top for the chance to walk among the ruins full of stories and to admire the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. The second residence of ruler Vlad the Impaler included a central keep, surrounded by walls and strong towers, which guarded strategic positions along the steep ridge.
We can experience one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountain adventures in Romania just a few kilometers from the Poenari fortress, after the road enters between the high ridges. The gorges or canyon Valea lui Stan runs in the first part of the valley of the same name in the Frunții mountains, and the landscape is completely wild. The impressive route of approximately 9 kilometers has been arranged with stairs and metal bridges that make it easier for us to advance through the narrow walls, but also over charming waterfalls. The circuit is marked and reaches the shore of Lake Vidraru, but traveling through this canyon should be avoided during periods of heavy rains, when floods can form in the narrow valley.
Back on the road, we continue through a narrow valley, climbing rapidly towards the immense dam of Lake Vidraru. We stop for a few moments for a memorable walk along this engineering marvel, a spectacular but also a little frightening experience. On one side we admire the boundless expanse of the lake that mirrors the sky and the distant peaks of the Făgăraș, while just a few steps away, on the other side a dizzying abyss opens up. We can thus imagine the impressive force of the millions of cubic meters of water that this immense concrete wall has managed to chain.
All of these were created starting in 1965, capturing the waters of several mountain rivers and creating a reservoir with an area of almost 9 square kilometers and a length of over 10 kilometers. The maximum depth of Lake Vidraru is 155 meters right near the dam, which has an impressive height of 166 meters. When it was completed, after five years of work, it was the eighth largest artificial lake in Europe, and the hydroelectric plant downstream had an installed capacity of 200 MW. On a rock above the dam we can see the bronze statue of Prometheus, who personifies electricity. There are also several accommodation and leisure locations on the lake shore, including the possibility of participating in pleasant boat rides.
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We set off again and for a good part of the way, we follow the wavy contour of the lake, rarely visible among the tall fir trees. If the Transfăgărășan is known mainly for the spectacular landscapes it passes through, the bears that often appear on the side of the road have become equally famous. A phenomenon that is quite dangerous for people but especially harmful to the fragile balance of the natural environment, appeared once the bears learned that they get food from travelers’ cars, thus losing their wild instinct. Feeding bears is not only dangerous and unethical, but is now also prohibited by law. We are content to look at them in passing and continue our journey through the wooded valley towards the most exciting part of the Transfăgărășan.
Before starting the climb to the imposing ridge ahead, we make a stop in the area known as Piscul Negru, where there are a few cabins and restaurants. Hiking trails to the high peaks of Făgăraș also start from here, but their length and the difference in level of over 1,400 meters make them quite difficult for amateurs. A few kilometers further on, we begin to climb rapidly in a succession of long bends, passing by the Capra Waterfall, which tumbles right next to the road. We soon arrive in front of the tunnel that miraculously pierces the rocky ridge of the mountain for a distance of almost a kilometer. Walking through the dark tunnel, a strange sensation takes over our senses and it seems that the weight of the entire mountain weighs us down, and the echoes of the powerful engines intensify the feeling of unease.
We emerge from the tunnel right next to the enchanting Lake Bâlea, otherwise one of the most beautiful in the Romanian mountains. Unfortunately, the fame of the Transfăgărășan has transformed this idyllic natural monument into a chaotic bazaar, with thousands of cars crowding into the few makeshift parking lots and on the side of the road, thus creating a real colorful and noisy town every summer. The only way to avoid the bustle is to head to the few viewpoints or to set off on one of the trails that climb to the ridge above, hikes that offer us an overwhelming panorama of the road and the distant valleys. Our journey now enters the most spectacular, but also dangerous, portion of the Transfăgărășan road, following a descent into the glacial valley where the hairpin bends endlessly chain together, thus offering one of the most memorable travel experiences.
The Transfagarasan Highway is closed to traffic for several months each year during the cold season. Thus, the highest section between Piscul Negru and Bâlea Waterfall is impassable with the first snowfall (November) and until it is completely cleared (usually June). However, visitors can climb from Bâlea Waterfall to Bâlea Lake by cable car all year round!
A little further down, we pass the fabulous Bâlea waterfall, hidden from view from the road, but accessible at the end of a trail that starts from the cable car station below, which allows access to Bâlea Lake even when the road is closed. The impressive waterfall is located at 1,200 meters above sea level and has a height of over 60 meters, being the highest stepped waterfall in the country. The road continues for another 20 kilometers, reaching the village of Cârțișoara in the Land of Făgăraș, where it intersects with national road 1, which connects Brașov to Sibiu. We cannot yet descend from the kingdom of clouds without exploring the endless ridges of the Făgăraș Mountains, with the countless paths that furrow them and the disturbing landscapes that reveal themselves to us at every step…
Sights and Experiences
Places to See and Things to Do along the Transfăgărășan Road
Poienari Fortress
Visiting hours: in groups every 2 hours between 9am-3pm | Tarife: 30 lei (6€)/adult
A place steeped in history and shrouded in legends, the Poienari fortress dates back to the 14th century, when a solitary tower was built on the steep cliff. A century later, Vlad the Impaler expanded the fortification, erecting walls defended by several towers and other defensive structures. Located in a strategic and difficult to attack place, the Poenari fortress is located a few kilometers from the town of Arefu, on the Transfăgărășan. The narrow ridge on which it was built is approximately 400 meters high above the Argeș valley, with visitors having to climb almost 1500 steps to reach the fortress. Recently completely rehabilitated, it has been brought to a form close to its original one, with five towers, 3-4 meter thick walls and following the irregular contour of the cliff.
Valea lui Stan Canyon
One of the most beautiful and spectacular mountain adventures in Romania can be experienced near Vidraru Lake and Dam, a few kilometers after entering the Transfăgărășan. The Valea lui Stan gorge or canyon runs in the first part of the valley of the same name in the Frunții Mountains, which has a total length of approximately 11 kilometers. The landscape in this canyon is wild, and the route is impressive, being arranged with stairs and metal bridges that facilitate the progress of tourists. The circuit route is marked with a red dot and has a length of approximately 9 kilometers, reaching the Călugărița meadow and then on the shore of Vidraru Lake, for a duration of 4-5 hours. Along it, there are numerous sections with high and close walls, but also a lot of charming waterfalls. Traveling this route should be avoided during periods of heavy rain, when floods can form in the narrow valley, and the equipment must be appropriate for a fairly intense adventure.
Vidraru Lake and Dam
The Vidraru hydroelectric system was completed in 1965, when the waters of several mountain rivers (the most important being the Argeș) were captured behind an impressive dam, resulting in Vidraru Lake. It has an area of almost 9 square kilometers and a length of over 10 kilometers. The maximum depth is 155 meters right near the dam, which has a height of 166 meters and a length of 307 meters. Located between the peaks of the Frunții and Ghițu mountains, the reservoir and the other structures are the result of five years of amazing work, at the time of construction being among the most impressive systems in the world. The approximate volume of water is 465 million cubic meters, and the underground hydroelectric power plant has an installed capacity of 220 MW. On a rock above the dam, a bronze statue of Prometheus, who personifies electricity, can be seen. In addition to its importance and impressive grandeur, the lake is also a recreational destination, with several accommodation locations and pontoons on its shores where tourists can take boat trips or practice water sports.
Bâlea Lake
Located at an altitude of 2034 meters, the glacial lake Bâlea has an area of almost 5 hectares and a maximum depth of over 11 meters. The lake is located just a few steps from Transfăgărășan, and over time, several chalets and the upper cable car station have appeared on its shores. Considered one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in the country, Bâlea is surrounded on three sides by the steep rocky ridges of the Făgăraș, and to the north lies the splendid glacial valley and the road that runs through it. Declared a natural monument and a protected natural area, the lake is surrounded by numerous legends. Among its attractions is the ice hotel that is built almost every winter (starting in 2006), using blocks of ice from the lake.
Brown Bears of Romania
It is estimated that of the approximately 18,000 brown bears living in Europe today, about half are found in the Carpathian Mountains, and of these, over 6,700 are in Romania. The forests of these mountains represent the perfect habitat for the continent’s largest carnivore. Although there are increasing cases of interaction between humans and brown bears, their attacks are rare and isolated, with the vast majority of bears choosing to leave the area at the slightest sound of human activity. However, hikers should always take all precautions on tourist trails and in the wild areas of Romania. Most brown bears in Romania live in the mountainous area and partly high forested hills, with most specimens being found in the central and northeastern area of the Carpathians.
Other Interesting Discoveries
Lesser known places and activities on the Transfăgărășan Road
Hiking from the Transfăgărășan
Many of the hiking trails in the Fagaras Mountains start or cross the Transfagarasan, making the road an excellent starting point for mountain adventures. While the Fagaras ridge trail crosses the ridge above the tunnel, there are several trails that start near Lake Bâlea and climb towards the main ridge, also offering spectacular views of the road. Other trails start from the Piscul Negru area, with several climbing towards the western ridge (red dot towards Lespezi Peak, red cross towards Podragu Saddle or blue triangle towards Lake Călțun). A little higher up, two shorter trails (yellow triangle, blue stripe) also start towards the ridge, where they join the main trail. In the northern section of the road, there are several trails that start towards nearby ridges or valleys (Muchia Bâlei, Muchia Buteanu, Arpășel Valley, Doamnei Valley).
Bâlea Waterfall
Also known as Urlătoarea Bâlei, the Bâlea waterfall is considered one of the most beautiful in the country, being also the highest stepped waterfall, with a total drop of approximately 60 meters. Access is made along a route that starts from the Bâlea Cascada chalet, from where the cable car to Lake Bâlea also departs. Follow the river upstream for approximately 30-60 minutes, the route being quite easy, but it also has a steeper section.
Bâlea Cable Car
Open since 1975, the cable car connects the Bâlea Cascada area with Bâlea Lac, over a total length of 3700 meters and a difference in altitude of over 800 meters. It operates all year round, except during periods when the weather conditions are unfavorable (strong winds, storms, very low temperatures).
Opening hours: 9-17 | Prices: 80 lei (16€)/adult/way
Capra Waterfall
One of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Fagaras Mountains, especially due to its location right next to the Transfagarasan road. The Capra Waterfall, also known as the Iezer Waterfall, is located a few kilometers before the southern entrance to the Bâlea tunnel and before the Salvamont hut at altitude 2000. It is approximately 35 meters high and springs from Capra Lake, located a few hundred meters higher. In spring, it has a very high flow rate, being fed by the melting snow on the ridges.
Accommodation Recommendations
The best lodging options on the Transfăgărășan Road
Rating 9.3 from 211 reviews!
Located near the starting point of the Bâlea cable car, in the northern part of the Transfăgărășan, this popular hotel offers accommodation in welcoming rooms!
Transfăgărășan
Rating 9.0 from 1.124 reviews!
Located in the Piscul Negru area, near the most spectacular portions of the Transfăgărșan, the hotel offers accommodation in modern rooms and a restaurant!
Transfăgărășan
Rating 9.0 from 357 reviews!
Located in the Piscul Negru area, this excellent accommodation unit offers welcoming rooms with all amenities, a restaurant, a bar and a terrace!
Transfăgărășan