01

Old Town

Of Bucharest

As evening falls, especially with the first signs of spring, the old town of Bucharest transforms into a different place and the atmosphere changes dramatically… The pace becomes almost hypnotic, with endless rivers of people flowing towards the most vibrant streets, frantically searching for the most popular restaurants and bringing to life a destination of contrasts and strong emotions!

Bucharest Old Town 01 - Pinacotheca Palace
Pinacotheca Palace / Lipscani Street Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia

Our hearts start to beat faster and countless thoughts erupt in our minds, anticipating the journey we are just beginning, the roads we will travel and the people who will touch our souls forever. We open our eyes and all our senses are assaulted by the explosion of sounds and images that pierce the blue sky of Bucharest. We find ourselves in the middle of University Square, a symbol of freedom and rebirth, surrounded by the crazy traffic of the capital, perhaps dreaming of more peaceful lands, of green forests and wild mountains…

We take a deep breath and embark on the adventure of revealing the little secrets of the old center of Bucharest, perhaps hidden beyond the crowded boulevards. It is hard to imagine the lost glory of this place, often hidden under the dust of past centuries or behind new and multicolored shop windows. A few of the older palaces, inns and churches have nevertheless survived the long years of oblivion and we can still admire them in all their splendor. The true flourishing of downtown Bucharest began in the early years of the 17th century, once the capital was moved here from Târgoviște.

The main streets took on the names of the most important guilds, and merchants from all over Europe began to open their shops along them. The darkest period of this special place was represented by the years of communism, when a large part of the old center of Bucharest was destroyed to make way for socialist development plans. The very existence of the monuments that still stand is a true miracle that now gives us the chance to enjoy the unparalleled charm of a unique destination.

The old center of Bucharest covers an area of ​​approximately 500 square meters, being bordered to the north by Queen Elizabeth and Carol I boulevards, to the east by Hristo Botev boulevard, to the south by Corneliu Coposu boulevard, Halelor Street and Splaiul Independenței boulevard, and to the west by Victory Avenue. We can get here very easily from any corner of the capital, although we often have to fight our way through the inherent and sometimes suffocating traffic of the city. We have several metro and bus stations nearby, and most streets and attractions can be explored on foot.

Wandering the cobblestone streets, almost deserted on a Sunday morning, a strange feeling takes over us and sometimes, a fleeting image or a diffuse sound comes from beyond time and reminds us of the times when the city was called Little Paris. Without the constant assault of rushing crowds and neon lights, we can peacefully explore some of the places that make the historic center a fascinating experience. Thus, some of the old treasures of the capital are revealed to us, with palaces, churches and inns that have amazingly survived the long years of oblivion…

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Bucharest Old Town - St. Anton Church - Old Court
St. Anton Church - Old Court Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia
Bucharest Old Town 02 - Manuc's Inn
Manuc's Inn Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia

Wherever we begin our journey through the confusing maze of streets here, there are a few points of gravity that attract most travelers. We stop for a few moments near the old core of Bucharest, where the Old Court Palace once stood, and we can imagine the days when Vlad the Impaler and other legendary rulers led the country from here. The palace complex included living rooms, reception halls, cellars, stables, gardens and other spaces. It was used for several centuries and constantly developed by the ruling families of the time, but was almost destroyed after the fire of 1718 and the earthquake of 1738.

Unfortunately, the historical treasures now lie behind metal fences, undergoing a long renovation process that aims to transform the complex into a fascinating museum. For now, we can only admire the charming “St. Anthony” Church, which dates back to around 1555, being the oldest religious building in the city that has preserved its original architecture. Right in front of the palace, we can enjoy a traditional meal and the unique atmosphere at Manuc’s Inn, probably the most famous historical inn in Bucharest. It still retains much of its authentic appearance dating back to 1808, when it was built by a wealthy Armenian entrepreneur.

As the evening approaches, especially in the warm season, the old town transforms into a completely different place and the atmosphere changes dramatically. The pace becomes almost hypnotic, with streams of people rushing down the most popular streets, frantically searching for the noisiest restaurants and clubs. We often feel as if we could be swept away by the endless wave and end up in a crowded pub, sharing a table with a group of noisy tourists, quickly forgetting the almost bohemian atmosphere felt just a few hours ago. Many carefree travelers lose themselves in the darkest places of this endless universe of dreams and pleasures…

We continue our walk on French Street, and in front of the “Sfântul Dumitru” – Poștă Church, we pass behind the imposing building that houses the National History Museum, arriving after a few steps near one of the most beautiful churches in the city. Another small gem of bygone days, lost among newer and taller buildings, the church of the Stavropoleos Monastery impresses us with its superb traditional Brâncovenesc style. It was built in 1724 by a Greek monk who also owned an inn, which was demolished at the end of the 19th century together with the monastery. Shrouded in amazing stories, the small church houses the largest collection of Byzantine music books in Romania and has a small enchanting garden.

Just a few steps away, we enter the fabulous Lipscani Street, once the meeting place of the best merchants and the most fashionable townspeople. Still full of delightful little discoveries, the emblematic street of the old capital welcomes us with several unique museums and a lot of architectural treasures. First, we admire the impressive architecture of the Pinacoteca and the National Bank palaces, then we explore some of the cultural spaces spread along it. Less known to visitors, the “Little Paris” Museum holds fascinating collections that try to recall the atmosphere of the city at the beginning of the 19th century.

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Bucharest Old Town - Stavropoleos Monastery Church
Stavropoleos Monastery Church Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia
Bucharest Old Town - Stavropoleos Monastery Church
Stavropoleos Monastery Church Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia

Beyond the history and nostalgia emanating from the name Lipscani, nowadays most foreign tourists in search of experiences worthy of social fame enter the sophisticated atmosphere of the Cărturești Carousel Bookstore or enjoy the traditional gastronomic delicacies at the Caru’ cu Bere Restaurant. Linden Tree Inn and Gabroveni Inn are two other interesting monuments, preserved from the glory days of Bucharest, even if today they have been transformed into commercial spaces. Other attractions in this part of the old center include the “Sfântul Elias” Church – Colței Inn, the “Sfântul Nicolae” Șelari Church, the Kitsch Museum, the Statue of the She-Wolf and others.

Towards the end of the day, we still have enough time for a visit to the Bucharest Municipality Museum, which tells the story of the city and its inhabitants throughout time. Housed inside the magnificent Șuțu Palace in University Square, it houses interesting historical and artistic collections including documents, photographs, artwork, textiles and more. This museum also encompasses other smaller museums and memorial houses spread throughout the city. The most important include the extensive art collection housed in the Pinacotheca Palace (over 2000 Romanian works of art), but also other spaces such as the Theodor Aman Museum, the Victor Babeș Museum or the Filipescu-Cesianu House.

Bucharest Old Town - Lipscani Street
Lipscani Street Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia
Bucharest Old Town - National Bank Palace
National Bank Palace Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia

Nearby we also find the “Saint Nicholas” Church, also known as the Russian Church due to its gilded domes, unique for Romania. On the other side of I.C. Brătianu Boulevard, which was built over a demolished part of the old center, we find several other special places, starting with the old church of Colțea, which was built in 1702 as part of a monastery and includes splendid interior paintings. A little further south, near the monument marking Kilometer 0 of Romania, there is the “Saint George Nou” Church, the last building of Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu (1707), w is buried here. The southeast corner of the old center is occupied by the so-called Jewish Quarter, with the Coral Temple, built in the mid-19th century as a replica of the great synagogue in Vienna.

In addition to all the impressive monuments that we can discover during a walk through this fascinating destination, there are also many small hidden treasures, which can be found through the labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys. Urban explorers and culture lovers must, however, make their way through the eternal construction works and beyond the dilapidated facades to feel some of the authentic charm of the Old Town of Bucharest, more famous for its restaurants and exciting nightlife. Far from being a perfect destination, this is a captivating and always surprising experience, and from here we continue exploring the capital along one of the most elegant and fascinating boulevards in Europe, Victory Avenue

Bucharest Old Town - Selari Street
Strada Selari Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia
Bucharest Old Town - French Street
Strada Franceza Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia
Bucharest Old Town - Cărturești Carusel Bookstore
Cărturești Carusel Bookstore Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia

Sights and Experiences

Places to See and Things to Do in Bucharest Old Town
Lipscani Street

Taking its name from the old merchants who brought goods from Leipzig and sold them in the shops here since 1750, Lipscani Street is certainly among the most picturesque and fascinating in Bucharest. In addition to various shops (the most famous were the textile ones), several inns (Gabroveni, Șerban Vodă, Zlătari) operated here, and later banks, bookstores and others. Once the core of the medieval city, Lipscani Street is still famous and often the busiest in the old center, being flanked by a multitude of gorgeous buildings and interesting attractions.

Bucharest Municipality Museum

Opening hours: Wednesday-Sunday / 10 – 18   |   Tickets: 30 lei (6€)/adult

Although many believe that the municipal museum is represented only by the building located in University Square, it comprises no less than 12 different museums and memorial houses spread throughout the city, representing a complex cultural experience. The museum housed in the Șuțu Palace is however the most well-known and visited, containing a rich collection of exhibits that present the evolution of the city and the lives of its inhabitants over time. The other sections of the museum include the Curtea Veche Museum, the Bucharest Art Gallery, the Theodor Aman Museum, the Victor Babeș Museum, the Astronomical Observatory, the Nicolae Minovici Museum, the Filipescu-Cesianu House, the Dinu Lipatti House and others.

STAVROPOLEOS Church

One of the most beautiful examples of the Brancoveanu architectural style, this small church and the surrounding monastery were built in 1724 by a Greek monk who also owned a nearby inn. Both the monastery and the inn were demolished in the late 19th century, and the church itself suffered from earthquakes. In addition to the interior paintings and superb icons, it also preserves the largest collection of Byzantine music books in Romania. Since 2008, the Stavropoleos Monastery has been re-established, and the community of nuns here also deals with the renovation of old books and icons.

Old Court Complex

The capital moved here in 1659, and the core of the city’s development was the voivode’s palace, now known as the Old Court. After numerous disasters, archaeological research has revealed some of the old structures, and a modern museum will be set up here where visitors will be able to admire historical vestiges and discover the ancient history of Bucharest. The only element of the ensemble that has remained relatively unchanged is the Curtea Veche Church (“Annunciation” and “Saint Anthony”), built between 1545 and 1554 by Prince Mircea the Shepherd, now representing the oldest religious building in the capital. Inspired by the church of the Cozia Monastery, this was the coronation place of the rulers of Wallachia for two centuries.

Bucharest Municipality Museum - Bucharest Old Town
Bucharest Municipality Museum - Bucharest Old Town
Bucharest Municipality Museum - Bucharest Old Town
Bucharest Municipality Museum - Bucharest Old Town
Pinacoteca Palace

Also known as the Dacia-Romania Palace, the magnificent building on the corner of Lipscani and Stavropoleos Streets was once the headquarters of the Dacia-Romania insurance company, where an old church and a former inn used to stand. The current palace was built at the end of the 19th century, later becoming the headquarters of the Romanian General Bank and other companies or institutions. Starting in 2013, the building was purchased by the city hall with the aim of being transformed into the Bucharest Art Gallery. Administered by the Municipal Museum, it contains a treasure trove of over 2,500 valuable Romanian and European paintings, as well as sculptures, decorative art and graphics.

CĂRTUREȘTI CARUSEL

Opening hours: Daily / 10 – 22

Located on the charming Lipscani Street, the stunning bookstore is one of the newest and most unique attractions in Bucharest’s old town. Built in 1860, the historic building was first a bank, then a general store, and was completely restored and transformed by 2015. Today, the bookstore is one of the most visited and admired attractions in the old town, spanning six levels and offering a spectacular interior design, with balconies, columns, and ornate staircases, as well as over 10,000 books and other products.

MANUC's Inn

Opening hours: Daily / 10 – 24

With over two centuries of history, this historic inn is one of the symbols of hospitality in Bucharest. It was originally built in the early 19th century by a wealthy Armenian merchant named Manuc Bei. Over time, the inn has hosted important historical events, but it has also gone through more difficult times, being renovated and restored several times. Today, Manuc’s Inn includes a traditional restaurant, cafes and other commercial spaces, with plans to open some accommodation inside.

Caru' cu Bere

Opening hours: Daily / 9 – 24

Part of the renowned historic restaurants of Bucharest, the old restaurant was built in the early 20th century by a Transylvanian merchant whose family also had other businesses in the area. The gorgeous building with rich decorations is now a historical monument and houses one of the most prestigious traditional restaurants in the city, sometimes offering musical performances. It prides itself on authentic Romanian dishes, but also on international inspiration, with some unique recipes, including a special beer!

Bucharest Old Town - St. George New Church
St. George New Church Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia
Bucharest Old Town - Coral Temple
Coral Temple Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia

Other Interesting Discoveries

Lesser known places and activities in Bucharest Old TOwn
University Square

One of the largest and most beautiful squares in Bucharest, it is almost always crowded, but it retains its special charm. University Square is surrounded by numerous impressive buildings and other interesting attractions, the most representative being the University of Bucharest, the National Theater, the Intercontinental Hotel, the Șuțu Palace, the Saint Nicholas Church, the Colțea Hospital or the Colței Church.

Little Paris Museum

This unique museum in the city center aims to bring back to life the specific atmosphere of life in interwar Bucharest, in a unique combination of French and Ottoman influences, with a typical Romanian flavor. The museum presents the interior of a bourgeois villa in Bucharest between the two world wars, but also objects reminiscent of that era, including furniture, ceramics, costumes, photographs and more. The museum includes a café and a vintage photo studio!

Opening hours: Daily / 11 -19 | Tickets: 45 lei (9€)/adult

Other Monument Churches

In addition to the most famous historical monument churches in the Bucharest Old Center, which most people know, there are also some special architectural treasures hidden here. The Colțea Church is dedicated to the “Three Hierarchs” and dates back to the beginning of the 18th century, being one of the oldest monuments in the capital. The Doamnei Church dates back to the end of the 17th century, being founded by Mrs. Maria Cantacuzino and appreciated for its special architecture. The “Saint Nicholas” Church – Șelari was rebuilt in 1868 after the previous churches here were affected by earthquakes, being painted by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Other superb churches in the old center include the “St. Ilie” Church – Hanul Colței, the Scaune Church, the Răsvan Church, the Bărăției Church, the “Saint Ioan” Church – Nou, the Doamna Bălașa Church or the “Saint Gheorghe” Church – Vechi!

Comunism Museum

Among the capital’s unique cultural experiences, this small museum in the old town presents aspects of daily life during the communist regime. It includes an apartment furnished and decorated according to the historical period, as well as extremely interesting objects and documents. It also includes a café where guests can try drinks inspired by the communist era!

Opening hours: Daily (except Wednesday) / 10 – 19 | Tickets: 40 lei (8€)/adult

Fottball Museum

Housed in a renovated historical building, this museum is the first of its kind in Eastern Europe, being opened in 2022. It includes both unique exhibits (trophies, authentic equipment) and a lot of information about the history of this sport, all presented in an interactive way. On the ground floor there is a bistro-restaurant where you can watch football matches, and the museum also includes a souvenir shop for football lovers!

Opening hours: Daily (exc. ​​Wednesday) / 9 (11) – 19 | Tickets: 55 lei (11€)/adult

Stelea Spătarul Street

Somehow overlooked by travelers who arrive in the Old Center, the part beyond Brătianu Boulevard still preserves many treasures from Bucharest’s bygone days, even if many would need urgent renovations. A special place is Stelea Spătarul Street, where in addition to the buildings declared historical monuments, among which the Guilds House stands out, we can admire the unique mailboxes of the houses here, most of which are hand-painted and give the street a special charm!

Bucharest Old Town - Stavropoleos Street
Stavropoleos Street Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia
Bucharest Old Town - Caru cu Bere Restaurant
Caru cu Bere Restaurant Ⓒ Silviu-Florin Salomia

Accommodation Recommendations

The best lodging options in Bucharest Old Town
Recomandari Cazare in centrul vechi din Bucuresti - Hotel Matisse Old Town

Rating 9.3 from 1.569 reviews!

One of the most appreciated hotels in the Old Town of Bucharest, it offers accommodation in spacious and welcoming apartments, with kitchenette and private bathroom!

Blănari St. no. 18

Recomandari Cazare in centrul vechi din Bucuresti - Old Town Boutique Hotel

Rating 8.1 from 102 reviews!

Located right in the heart of the old center of Bucharest, close to most terraces and restaurants, as well as tourist attractions, the hotel offers superior accommodation and great services!

Șepcari St. no. 12-14

Recomandari Cazare in centrul vechi din Bucuresti - Hotel Liad City Center

Rating 8.2 from 3.273 reviews!

Located right in the old town, near most monuments and museums, the hotel offers accommodation in welcoming rooms with all the necessary amenities, as well as private parking or a rooftop terrace!

Colței St. no. 44

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